Francois et Julien Pinon Pétillant Brut, AOP Vouvray [Organic] 2022

Meet the Producer

The Pinon’s have a way with Chenin that coaxes out the voluptuous, decadent, and bon vivant side of the variety. Julien is the 8th generation custodian of the 15ha estate that’s been producing striking wines since 1786. Organic, low intervention, whatever you want to call it, they’re just properly grown grapes speaking to old wood and natural yeasts, in what has to be one of the lushest winemaking regions in France.
Julien emphasises all those notes of wild, honeyed tarte tatin, and ripe nectarine that dribbles down your forearms, while stitching it all into a tight foundation of vibrant biting acidity. You can tell a good Vouvray producer from their sec when they don’t have any sugar to hide behind, and his is simply one of the best in the region. Building from a rich honeyed nose into pears and hay, before a cheek puckeringly - are those tannins!? – properly dry finish.
Residual sugar is handled like a good jazz musician; adding some bass here, and a little brass there just when you need it, and adding a little ‘tendre’ while allowing the fruit and acid to shine, never taking over the session with a gratuitous solo.